Make sure to tighten or replace broken belts to keep everything cool and avoid bigger engine problems. If the engine belt is loose or broken, the pump won’t turn and won’t propel the coolant. The engine belt turns the water pump to move the coolant through the system. Proper belt function is closely related to how well your water pump works. If you engine overheats, always check the water pump first because without proper pump function, there’s no hope of getting your engine working again. When your water pump is unstable, there’s internal erosion, or if the system becomes contaminated, the pump may stop working correctly. Your engine’s water punch is typically considered to be the most important part of your car’s cooling system because it controls the flow of coolant through the whole system. You don’t want to be stuck on the side of the road with your engine billowing steam. Keep an eye on your check engine light, and before you hit the road for a summer road trip, give your car a complete checkup. There are plenty of factors outside of the external temperature, however, that can contribute to your car’s risk of overheating, and most of them are preventable if you know what to look for. After all, if your car is baking in the sun at 90 to 100 degrees and the engine hasn’t even been turned on, you’re working at a significant disadvantage. It isn't that difficult to do other than you can't see much because it is on the rear coolant pipe behind the engine.With summer on its way, temperatures are rising – and the risk of your car overheating is on an upward trend as well. If you are really worried about then you can replace your coolant temperature sensor, the o-ring, and the plastic C-clip. You live up north where it is going to be colder outside ambient temperature wise than people like me farther south. When it is colder out it takes longer for the engine to reach operating temperature, especially if you do a lot of stop and go rush hour traffic. Also check if there are cracks along the bottom of the coolant tank because as the plastic ages it discolors into a yellowish clear and it starts to crack along the bottom from the engine heat.Īs far as the engine heating up goes. ![]() If it is plugged in and spraying the pins with cleaner doesn't help then you probably need a new coolant tank. Check that the warning goes away before you put the coolant tank back in and screw it down. If it is plugged in then spray the pins with some electrical contact cleaner and plug it back in. Take the one screw out for the coolant tank, then lift the coolant tank out of the tab retainers, and check that it is plugged in. There is a low level sensor in the bottom of the coolant tank. The CEL went away after a couple days so i wasn't able to read it, and i do not have a Ross-tech to read what has been stored.Īny help is greatly appreciated, thank you! This, and a random CEL from last week, have me wondering. I was wondering why it would take this long. Lately, i've seen it only get to the 1/4 mark after about 10 minutes and may not get up near the 1/2 mark until i'm almost home from my 30 minute commute. Typically the car gets to the middle on the engine temp gauge in about 10 minutes. ![]() Is there some sort of low-level sensor i can look for and possibly replace? What would cause this error other than actually having low coolant? There shouldn't be a leak anywhere as i have plenty of coolant.Īs for things that may have changed recently - i have noticed that on some days it takes quite a while for my engine to get warm. Needless to say, i'm a little scared to drive it in the event there's some sort of major failure (car runs great still, from what i can tell). So after i added the coolant, slightly above the "max" line, i started it up again and got the same warning light. ![]() Before adding it, i realized i was right in the middle, so i was unsure why it was beeping at me but i added more anyway. The next morning i started the car and of course the light was still on, beeping at me, so i added coolant to the tank. Drove 5 more minutes to my house and shut the car off. Car temperature was right in the middle where it usually is, and I've never seen it get above this point. This popped on the other day while driving for maybe 10 minutes. I'm wondering if anyone can troubleshoot an issue with my coolant light.
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